Sichuan American academic
Sichuan beauty workshop in the second quarter end | guo-yun zhang: fashion design should not only look up at the starry sky will be stamped on the earth
Published: December 12, 2022 15:43 Author: Source:    浏览:



Zhang Guoyun

Director of the Department of Clothing, School of Design, Sichuan Fine Arts Institute, doctoral supervisor, professor, member of Chinese Artists Association, executive member of China Fashion Designers Association。His works were selected in the 13th National Art Exhibition, won the Excellence Award of the 9th International Fiber Art Biennale "From Lausanne to Beijing", won the second prize of the 2nd International Wearable Art Exhibition, selected in the 7th Beijing International Art Biennale, selected in the National Arts and Crafts Exhibition, etc。

On the afternoon of December 11th, the eighth lecture of the second season of "Sichuan Beauty Lecture Hall" was held jointly by Sichuan Fine Arts Institute and Chongqing Daily。Zhang Guoyun, director of the fashion Department and doctoral supervisor of the School of Design, Sichuan Fine Arts Institute, walked into the studio and shared relevant topics of fashion design with netizens with the title of "Going to the Field: From Wedding Dress of Dong Nationality to Wedding Dress of Zhuang Dong Nationality", which attracted about 270,000 viewers。

▲ Live broadcast。Photo provided by Zhou Jiamin

In the live broadcast, Zhang Guoyun took her field investigation in Dong Village, Huanggang Village, Liping County, Guizhou Province, which lasted for more than 10 years as an example. Based on female dress - wedding dress, she combed the formation and development process of wedding dress of the ancient Dong people。She said the Dong ethnic group was established and marriages with the same surname were formed, absorbing the marriage customs of the Han people。According to lu you "old learn some notes" records "people" is the independent groups: "Chen yuan JingZhou quite 犵 狑, 犵 Lao, 犵 lam, rolls for grain 犵 Yao, mountain, common to native......。” 朱辅《溪蛮丛笑》载“五溪之蛮……今有五,曰苗,曰瑶,曰僚,曰仡伶,曰仡佬。"Ling Wai Dai Da" also recorded: "In Yongzhou, there was marriage in all the streams Dong。Dong Guan many surname Huang, the same surname married also。Its marriage also, only to the rough pain for the Shang。Send the etiquette, more to thousands of people, gold and silver coins and silk fermented for more, but its fee is also cloud。”

Dong wedding dress first formed in the Song Dynasty, wedding dress shape system to blouse skirt, cuff edge decoration as the feature, with colorful balls, tortoiseshell, conch and other ornaments dress up as the fashion form。周去非《岭外代答》记载:“岭南嫁女之夕,新人盛饰庙坐,女伴亦盛饰夹辅之,迭相歌和……名曰送老。”陆游《老学庵笔记》也载:“辰、沅、靖州蛮有犵狑……,女未嫁者,以海螺为数珠挂颈上。”

"Through field research, I deeply feel that our students should experience, remember, inherit and innovate, so that they can better inherit the traditional culture and elements。"Zhang Guoyun said。

▲ Live broadcast。Photo provided by Zhou Jiamin

Take straw hats, which are common in rural areas, as an example. A straw hat costs about 10 yuan, but the international luxury brand LV borrows the design of straw hats from the past and puts on its own LOGO, and sells them for more than 8,000 yuan。

Another example is liberation shoes. During our investigation, we found that almost everyone in the village can wear them, which is a standard part of their daily life。But international fashion designers took it, changed it a little bit, added some angles to the front of the shoes, became a popular brand, and the price was multiplied several times。

"This is what we often say, there are many fashion elements in the field, young designers must pay attention to the field, go into the field, return to the countryside, to feel the human fireworks, and then carry out the innovation of material technology, scientific and technological materials, to achieve creative transformation and innovative development。Zhang Guoyun said。

She says a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step。做好服装设计,既要仰望星空,追求外来之尚;又要脚踩大地,吸取民间、田野之气。

The whole live broadcast lasted about one hour. Zhang Guoyun explained deeply and simply, which made the audience of the live broadcast room more and more popular, attracting about 270,000 people。

Golden sentence sharing

At present, there are many voices about the inheritance and innovation of traditional skills。有的人认为,把传统一直保留下来,保留最原始、最古朴的技艺,就是传承保护;也有人认为,要把传统技艺创新转化为当下人可接受之物,才能更好传承发展。Personally, I think you can have both。

Young designers, must pay attention to the field, into the field, understand the human fireworks。

A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.。做设计,既要仰望星空,追求外来之尚;也要脚踩大地,吸取民间、田野的文化气息。